Getting a fade haircut is simple: Any barber in the country will go straight to work if you sit in the chair and ask for one. Getting a flattering fade that you love, that doesn't need a week to look O.K.? That's a lot more complicated. There are certain rules around fades, and all kinds of terminology. What's more, no two guys will wear the same style in the same way.
“Fades usually depend on two factors: desired overall style and the shape of one’s face,” says barberHerson Rodriguez, who keeps guys lined up atBlind Barber Chicago. For example, he says low fades are better for medium-to-long styles, while also being more flattering for round faces. “A low fade allows the top length to blend naturally with the fade, and in terms of face shape, it visually slims and lengthens the face.”
If your eyes just glazed over, that's cool—and that’s why it’s worth seeking out a good barber like Rodriguez: They’re going to be crunching these numbers in their head as they analyze your face and hair, ensuring that you’re getting something that flatters you. (And they’re smartly modifying the style of whichever celebrity haircut photo you brought in.)
For all fade haircuts, your barber gradually reduces the length of your hair on the side and back of your head until a given length. But there are lots of variables within that basic pattern. Here are some questions to ask in order to determine what kind of fade you get, according to Rodriguez.
How much hair is left the end of the fade?
Clipper guard
A common way of asking for a fade is to specify what clipper guard your barber should be using at the end of the fade. So a #1 fade will terminate in hair that's ¼ of an inch.
Skin fade
In this case the fade tapers all the way down to the skin and is usually finished with a razor blade by your barber. You'll want to talk to your barber about how high that bald section should go.
"Skin fades are a popular choice for a higher contrast and more defined haircut,” Rodriguez adds. They’re also great for guys who want to showcase tattoos on the sides or backs of their dome. This section of skin-faded hair will grow in after a week or so, so regular cleanups will be needed to maintain the contrast.
How high on your head does the fade start?
Low fade
Low fades quickly graduate to a fuller, scissor-chopped height. They are best suited for medium or long styles since they blend more naturally with the fade instead of sharper disconnects. However, the degree of difficulty is slightly higher for the barbers here, since it requires the professional to do a lot with a little bit of real estate. So, make sure you’ve got a trusted hand working on your head.
Mid fade
Fades that are blended midway up the sides of your head, say an inch or more above the ear, are the most versatile of the fades, says Rodriguez. “Mid fades are great for short, medium, or long styles,” he says. There are fewer rules around face shape with these ones, since you have so much more hair up top to help determine how the style plays with your face shape instead of putting that weight on the fade.
